Most break-ins happen through the front door, a sliding or back door, a ground-floor window, or an unlocked garage or shed, because these offer the fastest, quietest path inside. The priority action is simple: reinforce locks and frames at those access points first, then add visible deterrents such as lighting and cameras. In 2024-25, an estimated 1.8% of Australian households experienced a break-in, so acting on the highest-risk points first makes the biggest difference.
TL;DR:
- Reinforcing locks, frames, and adding visible deterrents at front, sliding, ground-floor windows, garages, sheds, pet doors, and balconies provides the highest initial protection.
- Opportunistic burglars target easy, low-effort entry points, especially during holidays or if they detect signs of vacancy or previous attempts.
- Quick fixes like replacing locks, installing anti-lift devices, and securing tools can be done immediately, while professional upgrades ensure compliance and durability.
- Certified security screens installed into sound frames, along with proper surveillance and lighting, greatly increase resistance but are not foolproof.
- Signs of forced entry, such as damaged locks or scratched frames, should prompt prompt repairs to prevent future breaches.
Table of Contents
- 1. Most common entry points and a quick risk profile for each
- 2. How burglars choose targets and what the data says about local risk
- 3. Practical fixes: what to do at each entry point
- 4. Layered security: lighting, cameras, alarms and good neighbours
- 5. How to prioritise upgrades when time or budget is tight
- 6. Why certified security screens and professional installation matter
- 7. Signs of attempted or successful forced entry at common points
- 8. Balancing security, appearance and daily life
- Get AS-compliant doors and screens fitted properly
- FAQ
- Sources
1. Most common entry points and a quick risk profile for each
Knowing where to look first saves time and money; try the Home Safety Score Analyzer to quickly assess your property’s risk points. Walk your property and check these five zones before deciding what to fix.
The front door is the most used entry point because it is often the weakest, despite looking secure. A single-cylinder lock, a timber frame with no reinforcement, or a key hidden under a mat all give an intruder an easy way in. Letterboxes attached near the door can also signal when mail is piling up, hinting that nobody is home. Do now: remove any spare key hidden outside and check that the frame has no visible gaps around the strike plate.
Sliding and rear doors are a favourite because older aluminium tracks let a door be lifted out of its frame, and many rely on a flimsy latch rather than a proper lock. Rear doors also sit out of view from the street, giving an intruder time to work unseen. Do now: wedge a dowel or rod in the track as a temporary anti-lift measure until a proper bolt is fitted.
Windows, particularly ground-floor, sash and louvre styles, are common targets because glass can be broken quietly or louvre panes simply lifted out one at a time. A window left on the latch for ventilation is sometimes enough. Do now: swap any friction stays or standard latches on ground-floor windows for key-operated locks.
Garages and sheds are often overlooked, yet they frequently hold tools that help an intruder force entry elsewhere on the property, or a remote control that opens the house via an internal door. Do now: store ladders and tools inside a locked cabinet, and disable or remove spare garage remotes left in cars.
Balconies, skylights and pet doors are the gaps most homeowners forget. A pet door large enough for a small dog can be wide enough for a child-sized intruder, and a balcony near a downpipe or trellis offers an easy climb to an upper-level window. Do now: fit a lockable flap or internal barrier on pet doors overnight, and check that nothing near a balcony makes climbing easy.
- Front door: hidden keys, weak frames, single-cylinder locks.
- Sliding doors: lift-out tracks, flimsy latches, low visibility.
- Windows: unlocked latches, louvre panes, ground-floor access.
- Garage and sheds: stored tools, spare remotes, internal doors left unlocked.
- Balconies, skylights and pet doors: climbable features, oversized pet flaps.
2. How burglars choose targets and what the data says about local risk
Burglars generally favour speed and low effort over any particular type of house. The 1.8% of households that experienced a break-in in 2024-25, roughly 196,600 households, and the further 2.0% (about 217,500 households) that experienced an attempted break-in, show that opportunity, not the value of what’s inside, usually decides the target.
Most residential burglaries are opportunistic rather than planned. An intruder checks for the easiest access, tries it quickly, and moves on if it resists. This is why Victoria Police’s prevention guidance focuses on “hardening” the target: secure doors and windows, clear sightlines, and visible deterrents like lighting and alarms, rather than relying on a single expensive upgrade.
Seasonal patterns matter too. Break-ins often rise during school holidays and long weekends, when homes are more likely to be empty during the day, and in the lead up to Christmas, when deliveries and visible packaging signal new purchases inside.
The practical lesson is that a few minutes of resistance is often enough. A door that doesn’t give way on the first attempt, or a sensor light that switches on unexpectedly, frequently causes an opportunistic burglar to abandon the attempt and look elsewhere.
3. Practical fixes: what to do at each entry point
Once you know your weak spots, work through them in order of risk. Each entry point below has a quick action, a sign that it needs a professional, and a rough time and cost band.
- Front door. Fit a deadbolt or a triple-point locking system rather than relying on a single latch, and check the frame for rot or thin timber that won’t hold a strike plate under force. A security screen built to AS 5039 adds a second barrier without blocking light or airflow. DIY now: remove hidden keys and tighten hinge screws. Hire a pro when: the frame is damaged or you want a compliant security door fitted properly. Expect: a basic lock swap takes under an hour; a full front door security upgrade with a screen door is typically a half-day job once measured and ordered.
- Sliding and patio doors. Add an anti-lift device to stop the door being lifted from its track, fit a secondary patio bolt, and consider a keyed lock for any attached screen. DIY now: install a track dowel or anti-lift pin. Hire a pro when: rollers are worn or the frame needs reinforcement. Expect: anti-lift kits are a same-day fix; reinforced rollers and screens add a few days for ordering and fitting.
- Windows. Replace friction latches with key-operated locks, and weigh up laminated glass or security film for ground-floor panes that see the most foot traffic nearby. DIY now: lock every window, even ones rarely opened. Hire a pro when: you’re adding window security screens or replacing glass. Expect: key locks are an afternoon job; screen or glazing upgrades usually need a measure-and-order lead time.
- Garage and sheds. Fit a proper deadlock on the garage’s internal door to the house, store tools and ladders out of reach, and disable any spare remote left in a vehicle. DIY now: lock the internal door tonight. Hire a pro when: the garage door itself has no secondary lock. Expect: deadlocks are a quick trade job; a full internal door upgrade is comparable to any other interior door swap.
- Balconies, skylights and pet doors. Fit lockable fittings on skylights, strengthen or screen pet doors, and remove anything near a balcony that makes climbing easy. DIY now: trim trellises or furniture that offer a foothold. Hire a pro when: a pet door needs a secure mesh insert or a skylight needs a locking mechanism. Expect: landscaping fixes are immediate and free; fitted mesh or locking hardware is a short trade visit.
Pro Tip: Test every lock and latch from outside the house, not just from inside, since that’s the angle an intruder actually works from.
4. Layered security: lighting, cameras, alarms and good neighbours
Physical locks slow an intruder down, but layering in detection and visibility cuts the time they’re willing to spend trying. Each measure below reinforces the others rather than replacing them.
- Sensor lighting works best at entry points and side paths, and needs a regular check for dead bulbs or knocked-over sensors.
- CCTV coverage should prioritise the driveway and every entry point, with footage retained and cameras kept clean and correctly aimed.
- Monitored alarms alert a response service directly, while unmonitored alarms rely on noise alone, and visible signage for either can act as a deterrent on its own.
- Trimming vegetation near windows and doors, keeping fences low enough to see over, and displaying a clear house number all help neighbours and passers-by notice anything unusual.
- Simple neighbour watch habits, such as collecting mail during travel and asking someone to check the property, close the gap an empty house leaves open.
5. How to prioritise upgrades when time or budget is tight
Not every fix needs to happen at once. Sorting improvements into three tiers helps you spend where it counts first.
- Quick wins (low cost, same day): fix or replace weak locks, remove hidden keys, add sensor lights, and display visible security signage.
- Medium projects (moderate cost, lasting effect): fit AS 5039 compliant security screens, reinforce door frames, and upgrade window glazing.
- Major projects (higher cost, justified for high-risk properties): full door replacement or roller shutters, generally worth it where a property has had a previous break-in attempt or sits in a more exposed location.
A simple triage checklist, weighing time to implement, rough cost band, and how much deterrence each step adds, keeps the plan realistic instead of overwhelming. For a sense of where screens and doors sit on that cost scale, our security door cost guide breaks down typical price ranges.
6. Why certified security screens and professional installation matter
AS 5039.1:2023 sets the performance requirements Australian security screens and doors are tested against, covering how much force and tooling a screen resists before giving way. Standards documentation notes that these screens are designed to significantly increase the effort required to force entry rather than guarantee against it, and that a weak frame or poor anchoring can undermine an otherwise strong screen.
At quote time, ask any supplier for proof of AS 5039 compliance, details of the installation warranty, how measurements are taken, and realistic lead times. Manufacturers who comply with these standards typically install security doors and screens themselves and offer service and repair for products already in place. DIY fitting isn’t appropriate here: a screen anchored into a damaged or undersized frame won’t perform to its tested rating, no matter how strong the mesh is.
7. Signs of attempted or successful forced entry at common points
A front door with fresh scratches around the lock cylinder, a loose or splintered strike plate, or a door that no longer sits flush in its frame can all indicate someone has tried to pick or force the lock. Pry marks along a doorjamb, especially near the latch, are a common sign of a forced attempt that failed.
On sliding doors, check the track for scrape marks or a door that now sits slightly off its rail, both signs of an attempted lift-out. Windows with a cracked pane, a bent latch, or a flyscreen pushed out of its frame point to an attempt through that opening. Garages sometimes show scuffed paint near a side door or a remote that no longer works as expected, which can mean a tool was used to force the mechanism.
If you spot any of these signs, even without an actual break-in, treat it as a warning that the point was tested and found weak. Fixing it before the next attempt is far cheaper than dealing with a successful one.
8. Balancing security, appearance and daily life
Protecting the people inside the house comes before protecting what’s in it, and the two aren’t in conflict once you’ve got the basics right. Small habits, locking up every night, not leaving tools out, checking the mail during a trip away, add up alongside the physical upgrades to make a real difference over time. When you’re not sure whether a door or window is genuinely secure, a professional appraisal is a small cost against the alternative.
— MYBMC
Get AS-compliant doors and screens fitted properly
Once you’ve worked through the quick fixes, a professional security door closes the remaining gaps that DIY measures can’t. Professional security door providers often manufacture AS 5039 compliant doors and screens, measure and quote on-site, and back installations with a manufacturer warranty.
A typical visit starts with a free measure and consultation, followed by a quote that reflects your specific door or window openings, a manufacturing and installation lead time we’ll confirm upfront, and ongoing service and repair if anything needs attention later. If you’re ready to see what fits your home, request a quote for a security door and we’ll take it from there.
FAQ
What are the three types of burglary?
Burglary is generally grouped by how entry happens: forced entry through a locked door or window, unlawful entry through an opening left unlocked, and entry by deception, such as posing as a tradesperson. The common thread across all three is exploiting whichever entry point offers the least resistance.
How many burglaries are there?
In 2024-25, an estimated 1.8% of Australian households experienced a break-in, around 196,600 households, with a further 2.0% experiencing an attempted break-in. These figures cover actual break-ins and attempts separately, since both point to where security gaps exist.
Are bungalows more likely to be burgled?
Single-storey homes can offer easier access through ground-floor windows and rear doors simply because every entry point is within reach without climbing. That said, offender behaviour generally favours low effort and poor visibility over any one house style, so a two-storey home with an exposed ground floor carries similar risk.
What scares burglars the most?
Anything that adds time, noise or visibility tends to deter an opportunistic burglar, which is why Victoria Police’s guidance focuses on hardening entry points alongside sensor lighting, alarms and clear sightlines. A door or screen that resists the first attempt is often enough to send them looking elsewhere.
Do security screens actually stop break-ins?
A screen built to AS 5039 is tested to significantly increase the force and time needed to force entry, though standards documentation is clear that no screen is unbreakable. Proper installation into a sound frame matters as much as the screen itself, which is why professional fitting is worth the cost.
Sources
- Crime victimisation, Australia, latest release | Australian Bureau of Statistics
- Prevent home burglaries | Victoria Police
- AS 5039.1:2023 Security doors and window screens — Standards Australia