Retrofitting is usually possible, either by fitting an add-on security screen to your existing door or replacing it with a certified security door. The right choice depends on your frame’s condition and whether you need guaranteed protection. True security doors must meet AS 5039.1:2023 and be installed to AS 5039.2:2024 to keep their tested performance. If your jamb, frame or opening is damaged or non-standard, a measured-and-fitted replacement beats a patch-up every time.
TL;DR:
- Retrofitting with add-on screens is suitable only for sound frames and does not guarantee compliance with AS 5039-2023 standards.
- Full replacement with a certified security door is the only way to ensure tested performance and proper installation to AS 5039.2:2024.
- Structural damage or non-standard opening sizes warrant replacement rather than retrofit, as poorly anchored screens cannot meet security testing standards.
- Lock upgrades and frame reinforcement provide cost-effective, interim security improvements but do not carry compliance labels.
- Proper installation, including the use of certified products and correct anchoring methods, is essential to maintain security ratings and avoid voiding the product’s certification.
Table of Contents
- What are the retrofit options for an existing door?
- Is your door suitable for a retrofit or does it need replacing?
- DIY or professional installation: what’s actually safe to do yourself?
- What compliance labels and questions should you check?
- How much does a retrofit cost and how long does it take?
- Keeping a retrofitted door secure and draught-free
- When a quick fix beats a certified door, and when it doesn’t
- Get a measured, compliant security door fitted properly
- Where to check the standards yourself
- Sources
- FAQ
What are the retrofit options for an existing door?
Homeowners typically choose from four retrofit pathways, and each suits a different situation.
Add-on security screens fit over or into your existing door opening without replacing the whole unit. Face-fit screens attach to the outside of the frame, fixed screens are permanently mounted, and removable versions suit rental properties or heritage facades where you cannot alter the original door. These work well when your existing frame is sound and you just want an added layer of protection at lower cost.
Full replacement with an AS 5039-rated security door is the only route that guarantees tested performance, provided it carries a compliance label and gets installed to AS 5039.2:2024. A retrofit screen bolted to a weak or timber-rotted frame will not perform the way it did in the lab, no matter how solid the mesh looks. Replacement resets that risk.
Lock upgrades and frame reinforcement offer a cheaper interim fix. Swapping a single-point lock for a deadlock, or adding steel reinforcement plates around the strike area, buys you meaningfully better resistance without the cost of a new door. It won’t get you a compliance label, but it narrows the gap while you save for something more permanent.
Cosmetic refurbishment, such as powder-coating a tired aluminium frame, makes sense only when the underlying structure and locking hardware are already sound. It is a facelift, not a security upgrade, and should never be sold to you as one.
- Add-on screens: fastest, cheapest, good for sound frames
- Full replacement: only path to certified, tested performance
- Lock/frame upgrades: sensible stopgap on a tight budget
- Powder-coating: cosmetic only, requires healthy hardware underneath
Pro Tip: If your installer can’t tell you whether a product carries an AS 5039 compliance label, treat it as a screen door, not a security door, and price your decision accordingly.
Is your door suitable for a retrofit or does it need replacing?
Before you call anyone for a quote, walk your own door and take stock.
- Check the jamb and frame for rot, rust, or movement when you push the door frame side to side.
- Inspect the threshold for warping, gaps, or water damage that suggests longer-term structural issues.
- Note any existing security hardware already installed, including lock type and hinge condition.
- Assess coastal exposure, since salt air accelerates corrosion on lower-grade mesh and fittings.
- Measure width, height, and reveal depth, and identify which side the hinges sit on.
- Photograph the opening from straight on and at an angle, showing clearance around the frame.
If you find rot, a warped frame, or an opening that doesn’t match standard door sizes, retrofit becomes a poor bet. Those conditions point straight to replacement, because no screen performs to spec when it’s anchored to a compromised structure.
DIY or professional installation: what’s actually safe to do yourself?
Installation is where a tested product either keeps its rating or quietly loses it. AS 5039.2:2024 governs face fitting and anchoring methods for Class 1 to Class 10 buildings, and a panel that passed lab testing can still fail in the field if it’s fixed with the wrong fasteners or anchored to a weak jamb.
Some tasks are low risk and fine to handle yourself:
- Fitting basic draught seals around an existing frame
- Replacing a standard lock cylinder on a non-security door
- Adjusting hinge screws or minor threshold gaps
Other jobs belong with a professional, every time:
- Frame reinforcement or structural welding
- Certified fitting of an AS 5039-labelled door
- Anchoring into masonry, brick veneer, or compromised timber
Retailer guides cover the basics of measuring and fitting well, but they also point homeowners toward measured-and-fitted solutions once certification matters. On site, expect a professional install to run half a day for a straightforward single door, longer if frame repairs are needed. Ask your installer to confirm the anchoring method, fastener type, and expected duration before they start.
What compliance labels and questions should you check?
Three parts of the AS 5039 series work together. Part 1 sets product performance and classification. Part 2 governs installation. Part 3 defines the actual test methods, including knife shear, jemmy, and impact tests used to classify a product’s resistance.
The National Security Screen Association is blunt about this: a product can’t be marketed as a security door without an AS 5039 compliance label, regardless of how sturdy it looks.
Before you sign anything, ask your installer for:
- The compliance label and certificate for the exact product model
- A test report matching your specific configuration, not a generic brochure figure
- Written confirmation of installation method and fastener specification
- Confirmation of three-point locking as standard, since single-point locks fail jemmy testing far more easily
Correct frame anchoring and three-point locking aren’t optional extras. They’re the difference between a door that meets its rating and one that only looks like it does.
How much does a retrofit cost and how long does it take?
Price swings on a handful of factors: whether you’re retrofitting a screen or replacing the whole door, mesh grade (316 marine stainless costs more than 304 but resists corrosion far better), lock type, any frame repairs needed, and how complicated the opening is to work with.
Timeline follows a predictable pattern:
- Measure and quote: usually 1 to 2 weeks
- Manufacture: varies by product and current order volume
- Installation day: half a day for a simple retrofit, up to a full day where frame repairs are involved
Always ask for an itemised written quote that separates labour, materials, and any remedial work on the existing frame. A quote that bundles everything into one number makes it hard to tell what you’re actually paying for, or whether corners got cut on mesh grade to hit a price point.
Keeping a retrofitted door secure and draught-free
Mesh, frames, and locks all need periodic attention. Wipe down mesh and check lock action every few months, and inspect fixings annually for looseness or corrosion. Coastal homes should specify 316 marine-grade stainless mesh where the budget allows, since standard 304 mesh corrodes noticeably faster in salt air.
Draught-proofing pays off too. Sealing gaps around door frames can cut heat loss by roughly 15 to 25 percent, and a well-fitted security door with proper seals delivers that benefit without blocking airflow. If a seal has worn thin or a panel has started rattling in its frame, call your installer before it turns into a bigger repair.
Pro Tip: Check door seals each change of season, not just once a year. Seals degrade faster than mesh, and a loose seal is usually the first sign a door needs re-fixing.
When a quick fix beats a certified door, and when it doesn’t
A lock upgrade or frame patch makes sense when funds are tight and the frame itself is sound. But if you want guaranteed performance against forced entry, that only comes from a certified security door installed correctly. Structural repairs and proper installation aren’t places to cut corners.
— MYBMC
Get a measured, compliant security door fitted properly
Retrofit screens and lock upgrades have their place, but if you want a door that actually performs to its tested rating, that comes down to correct manufacturing and correct installation working together. Eastern Security Doors specialises in custom-made security doors and screens for residential properties, building tailored solutions that hold their compliance rating rather than just looking the part.
The business offers on-site consultations and a turnaround from measure to manufacture to installation within weeks. Clients often note the workmanship and reliability behind the finished product, along with pricing that they find competitive. Whether you need an aluminium security door for a standard opening or a stainless steel security door for a coastal property facing corrosion risk, the same measured-and-fitted approach applies.
If your frame is compromised, your opening is non-standard, or you simply want a door that carries a genuine compliance label, request an on-site measure and an itemised quote through Eastern Security Doors before you commit to a retrofit that can’t deliver the same guarantee.
Where to check the standards yourself
Verify any compliance claim directly with Standards Australia’s AS 5039 listings and the NSSA’s buying guidance. For basic DIY tasks, Bunnings’ installation outline covers the fundamentals, and One Day Doors & Closets has practical general draught-proofing tips.
Sources
- Buying a security door | National Security Screen Association
- AS 5039.1:2023 | Standards Australia Store
- How to install a security door | Bunnings
- Energy
FAQ
Can a screen door be added to an existing door?
Yes, in most cases a security screen can be face-fitted or fixed to an existing door frame, provided the frame itself is structurally sound. If the jamb is rotted, warped, or the opening is non-standard, replacement usually delivers a better result than trying to retrofit a screen onto a compromised structure.
What is the average cost to install a security door?
Cost depends heavily on whether you’re retrofitting a screen or fully replacing the door, plus mesh grade, lock type, and any frame repairs needed. Ask installers for an itemised written quote separating labour, materials, and remedial work so you can compare fairly.
Do hardware stores offer security screen doors?
Major hardware retailers sell basic screen products and DIY installation guidance suited to simple, low-risk jobs. For a door that needs to carry a genuine AS 5039 compliance label and hold its tested performance, a measured-and-fitted specialist installation is the safer route.
How much does Eastern Security Doors charge for a custom security door?
Pricing depends on the product line, size, and installation complexity, so Eastern Security Doors doesn’t publish a flat rate. Current pricing and product details are available directly through the Eastern Security Doors website, following a free on-site consultation and quote.
How long does a security door retrofit take from quote to installation?
Measuring and quoting typically takes 1 to 2 weeks, with manufacture lead times varying by product and order volume. Installation day itself usually runs half a day for a straightforward retrofit, extending to a full day where frame repairs are required.